The Complete Homeowner’s Guide to Roofing

How do I know if I need a new roof?

Look for six things: age past 18–20 years, granules collecting steadily in the gutters with bare patches showing on the shingles, curling or cracking across whole planes rather than in one spot, leaks appearing in more than one place, daylight visible through the decking in the attic, and any sagging in the roof line. One of these means get it inspected. Three or more usually means replacement.

Taking them in turn, because the reasoning matters more than the list:

• Age. The strongest single predictor. A 22-year-old roof that looks acceptable is still a 22-year-old roof, and it will not improve.
• Granule loss with bare spots. Granules are the shingle’s UV shield. Once they are gone in patches, the asphalt underneath starts breaking down fast.
• Curling or cupping across whole planes. Isolated curling near a vent is a local problem. Curling across an entire south-facing slope is the shingle mat failing.
• Repeat leaks in different places. One leak is a repair. Three leaks in three locations over two years is a roof telling you something.
• Daylight through the decking. If you can see light in the attic, water is getting in too.
• A sagging roof line. This is structural, not cosmetic, and it needs attention promptly.

Should I repair or replace?

Repair when the damage is confined to one area, the rest of the roof is in good condition, and the roof has meaningful life left. Replace when the same failure is appearing in multiple places, the shingles are deteriorating across the whole roof, or the roof is past roughly 20 years. Age is the deciding variable more often than the damage itself.

A useful way to frame it: a repair on a roof with eight years left is money well spent. The same repair on a roof with two years left is money spent twice, because you will pay for it again inside the replacement, and the repair patch will not match anyway.

The financial line most contractors use informally is that when a repair approaches 25–30 per cent of replacement cost on an older roof, replacement is usually the better decision. That is a rule of thumb, not a law, and it should be pressure-tested against how much life the rest of the roof actually has.

Can you replace just one section of a roof?

Technically yes, and sometimes it is the right call — a single slope damaged by a fallen limb on an otherwise healthy roof, for example. But the new section will not match the old one in color, because shingles weather, and the two sections will then age on different schedules. Partial replacement is a compromise, not a solution.

Where it genuinely makes sense: a detached garage, a porch roof, or one plane on a roof that is otherwise young. Where it usually does not: patching a plane on a fifteen-year-old roof to defer the inevitable.

Why are there granules in my gutters?

Some granule loss is normal, particularly in the first few months after a new roof when loose manufacturing granules wash off. Persistent accumulation from an older roof is different — it means the shingle is shedding its UV protection, and you will usually see corresponding bare, darker patches on the roof surface. That is a roof approaching the end of its service life.

The distinction that matters is where and how much. A cup of granules from a new roof after the first heavy rain is normal. A steady stream from a fifteen-year-old roof, with visible bald patches, is not.

Separately, do not treat granules in the driveway as proof of hail damage. IBHS testing found that hailstones “often will dislodge granules but are not hard enough to crush them,” and that granule loss scored uniformly well across products while dents and ridges were the genuinely damaging outcome. Granule loss is the cosmetic signal; dents, ridges and tears are the functional one.

Why are my shingles curling?

Curling happens when the shingle mat dries out and shrinks, and it is driven mainly by age, heat and inadequate attic ventilation. Cupping at the edges and clawing in the middle are the two patterns. If it is across a whole plane, particularly the one with the most sun, it is age and heat. If it is localised, check ventilation and what is underneath.

Curled shingles matter because they break the seal that holds the tab down, and once the seal is broken the shingle is exposed to wind uplift. A curled roof is a roof that loses shingles in the next storm.

What actually causes roof leaks?

Most leaks are not shingle failures. The common sources, roughly in order: cracked or deteriorated pipe boots, failed flashing at walls and chimneys, valleys, nail pops, ice or debris damming water behind an obstruction, and damaged or missing shingles. The rubber pipe boot is the single most frequent culprit, and it fails long before the shingles around it do.

This is why “the roof is only twelve years old, it can’t be leaking” is not a safe assumption. The shingles may have a decade left while the pipe boot that was installed with them has already split.

Why is there a water stain on my ceiling, and is it definitely the roof?

Not necessarily. A ceiling stain can come from the roof, from plumbing in the floor or wall above, from an HVAC condensate line, or from condensation in a poorly ventilated attic. The way to tell: roof leaks usually appear or worsen during and after rain, plumbing leaks do not follow the weather, and condensation shows up as diffuse damp rather than a defined stain with a ring.

Two things worth knowing. First, water travels — it can enter at a flashing twenty feet away, run along a rafter, and drop through the ceiling somewhere entirely unrelated. The stain marks where it landed, not where it got in. Second, a dry, well-defined stain with a brown ring is a historical leak; a soft, expanding, damp stain is an active one.

How urgent is a roof leak? Can it wait?

An active leak should be tarped within days, not weeks. The water itself is rarely the expensive part — the expensive part is what it does to decking, insulation, framing and drywall while you wait, and the mold risk in a humid climate. A leak that costs a few hundred to fix in week one can cost several thousand by month three.

If it is actively dripping right now: put a container under it, move anything valuable, and if there is a bulging wet patch in the ceiling, pierce it deliberately with a small hole over a bucket. A controlled drip is far better than a ceiling collapsing under the weight of pooled water. Then call someone.

Are missing shingles an emergency?

Not usually an emergency, but not something to leave either. A missing shingle exposes the underlayment, which is a water barrier but not a roof covering and will not last long under UV. Get it replaced within weeks rather than months. If several are gone in a patch, or the underlayment itself is torn, that is more urgent.

After a storm, missing shingles are also evidence. Photograph them, with the date, before anybody fixes anything — see documenting damage.

Is a sagging roof dangerous?

It can be, and it is the one symptom on this page that warrants prompt attention rather than monitoring. Sagging means the structure underneath is deflecting — rotted decking, a failed rafter, an undersized or damaged truss, or accumulated water load. A dip between rafters is a decking problem. A dip in the ridge line itself is a structural one.

This is not a wait-and-see item. Have it looked at, and if the sag is in the ridge or is visibly worsening, have it looked at soon.

Does algae on my shingles mean I need a new roof?

No. Black streaking is caused by a cyanobacterium and is cosmetic. It does not shorten the roof’s life in any documented way and it is not a reason to replace shingles that are otherwise sound. In metro Atlanta’s humidity and tree cover it is close to universal on north-facing and shaded slopes.

The full answer, including what to do about it, is in the maintenance section.

Is moss on my roof a problem?

Moss is a genuine problem in a way algae is not. It holds moisture against the shingle, its rhizoids work under the edges and lift them, and the retained damp accelerates deterioration of both shingle and decking. Algae stains; moss lifts. Moss should be removed — carefully — and the conditions that caused it addressed.

Moss means persistent shade and persistent damp, which in this area usually means overhanging branches. Removing the moss without thinning the canopy above it just buys you a couple of years.

How do I know if my roof has storm damage?

From the ground, look for missing or visibly lifted shingles, granules washed into a pile at the downspout, dents in soft metal — gutters, downspouts, vents, the fins on your air conditioner — and debris impact. Inside, check the attic for new daylight or damp. Metal is the tell: hail that dents an aluminum gutter has very likely bruised the roof too.

Air conditioner fins are the best diagnostic most people have and almost nobody checks. They are soft aluminum at ground level, and if they are dimpled, hail of a meaningful size fell on your property. That is evidence with a location attached.

Can I put a new roof over my old one?

Sometimes it is permitted, and it is almost always a bad idea. A layover means nobody inspects the decking, so rot stays hidden. It adds weight, traps heat against the new shingles, telegraphs the old surface’s irregularities through the new one, and makes the eventual tear-off more expensive because there are two layers to remove and dispose of.

The savings are real but smaller than people expect — you save the tear-off labor and disposal, which is a minority of the job — and you give up the one opportunity you get to see what your roof is actually sitting on. Whether it is allowed at all depends on your jurisdiction’s adopted code and how many layers are already up there, so check with your county building department before assuming.

What if my shingles are discontinued and can’t be matched?

This is more common than people expect, because manufacturers retire color lines regularly and even a current line weathers away from its factory color within a couple of years. A repair on a ten-year-old roof will be visible. Options are to accept the mismatch, to source the closest current match, or to pull shingles from a less visible slope to patch a visible one and use the new shingles where they show least.

This also has an insurance dimension. Whether an insurer must replace undamaged sections to achieve a uniform appearance is the “matching” question, and it varies by policy language and by state. Some policies commit to “like kind and quality” without promising color. We could not find a published Georgia position on matching — a fifty-state survey we checked does not list Georgia at all — so this is a read-your-policy item rather than a rule we can state.

Should I replace my roof before selling?

Usually not purely for the money. The 2025 Cost vs. Value Report puts asphalt shingle roof replacement at 68% of cost recouped at resale. Replacing a sound roof to add value loses money. Replacing a failing roof to remove a deal-killing inspection finding is a different calculation, and often worth it.

The practical middle ground many sellers take: get the roof inspected before listing, fix what is genuinely broken, and have the written report available for buyers. A documented roof with known issues priced into the deal beats a surprise on the inspection report three days before closing.

Roof repair near you

If you think your roof needs a repair rather than a replacement, see what that looks like in your town: roof repair in Woodstock, Canton, Holly Springs, Acworth, Kennesaw, Marietta, Dallas, Powder Springs, Smyrna, Hiram, Cartersville, Alpharetta, Austell. Or start with our roof repair page.

3-tab, architectural, or designer — what is the difference?

3-tab is a single flat layer of shingle with cut-outs that create the tab pattern. Architectural — also called dimensional or laminate — bonds two layers together, producing a thicker, heavier shingle with a textured look and generally better wind performance. Designer or luxury shingles are heavier still, shaped to imitate slate or shake. Architectural is the default on most new residential roofs.

Practical differences beyond appearance: architectural shingles are heavier, which helps them stay put; they usually carry higher wind classifications; and they hide minor deck irregularities better. 3-tab remains cheaper and is still specified on rentals, outbuildings and budget jobs.

We are not going to tell you architectural shingles last ten years longer than 3-tab, because as covered in the lifespan section, no authority publishes separate figures. It is reasonable to expect more from the thicker product. How much more is not documented.

Metal roof or shingles — which is better?

Metal costs substantially more up front and lasts substantially longer. The Cost vs. Value Report prices metal roof replacement at $51,865 against $31,871 for asphalt shingle on the same specified job — roughly 1.6 times the cost. Metal makes sense if you intend to stay a long time or want the look. Asphalt shingle remains the right answer for most metro Atlanta homes.

On the lifespan claim: the widely repeated “metal roofs last 60+ years” figure comes from a Metal Construction Association study of unpainted 55% aluminum-zinc coated steel standing seam on low-slope roofs. It is an industry-association study, it does not establish 60 years for residential painted standing seam, and it says nothing at all about exposed-fastener panels — which are a different and shorter-lived product. Treat the 60-year number as applying to a specific system, not to metal generally.

Three metal roof myths

• “Metal roofs are loud in the rain.” A residential metal roof is installed over solid decking and underlayment, often with an attic and insulation below. The barn-roof noise people imagine comes from metal over open purlins with nothing underneath.
• “Metal roofs attract lightning.” Metal is conductive, not attractive to lightning. A metal roof does not make a strike more likely, and if one occurs it disperses the energy across a broad non-combustible surface rather than igniting.
• “A metal roof makes the house hotter.” Metal reflects more solar radiation than dark asphalt and sheds heat faster once the sun is off it. In a cooling-dominated climate it is generally the cooler choice, not the hotter one.

What does a shingle’s wind rating actually mean?

It is a laboratory classification, not a survival guarantee. Two standards exist. ASTM D3161 blows air across the shingle for two hours: Class A is 60 mph, Class D is 90 mph, Class F is 110 mph. ASTM D7158 uses an uplift-force method and its classes are Class D at 115 mph, Class G at 150 mph and Class H at 190 mph.

Two things the marketing does not tell you, both from the roofing industry’s own technical people:

First, the D3161 standard itself states that “the results of this test do not directly correlate to wind speeds experienced in service.” Written into the standard. A Class F shingle is not a shingle that survives 110 mph winds on your house.

Second, the two standards are not interchangeable. The asphalt shingle manufacturers’ association notes that D3161 runs for two hours “despite building codes basing requirements on three-second gusts,” while D7158’s values “can be directly compared to code prescribed three-second gust design wind speeds.” D7158 is the code-comparable standard. D3161 is not. If someone quotes you a D3161 number as though it maps to the wind speed in your area, it does not.

What is a Class 4 impact-resistant shingle, and is it worth it in Georgia?

Class 4 is the top rating under UL 2218, awarded when a shingle withstands two strikes of a 2-inch steel ball at each test location with no tearing, fracturing or cracking visible on the back. It does not mean hailproof. Whether it is worth the upgrade in Georgia is genuinely arguable, and the honest answer depends on what your insurer will discount.

The UL 2218 classes are defined by steel ball diameter: Class 1 is 1.25 inches, Class 2 is 1.5, Class 3 is 1.75, Class 4 is 2 inches. Granule crushing and dents are not failures under the test — only an opening visible on the back of the shingle is.

Now the finding that most Class 4 marketing leaves out. The Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety tested 22 asphalt shingle products against laboratory hailstones and found that at 1.5-inch hail, every product — impact-rated and not — rated Good or Excellent. The impact-rated upgrade bought nothing measurable at that size. It was only at 2-inch hail that products separated, and there only polymer-modified asphalt products achieved Good or Excellent among the impact-rated group. IBHS’s own conclusion: “not all impact-resistant shingles are designed equally.”

So the Georgia calculation is different from the Colorado one. If your insurer offers a meaningful, durable premium discount for Class 4, the maths may work. If they do not, you are paying a real premium for a benefit that IBHS’s testing suggests only materialises above 1.5-inch hail. Ask your carrier for the actual discount in dollars before you decide, and ask whether the product is polymer-modified.

What do fire ratings mean?

Class A, B and C under ASTM E108 / UL 790 describe performance against severe, moderate and light fire exposure respectively. Class A is the highest. The test suite includes intermittent flame exposure, flame spread, a burning brand dropped on the assembly, a flying brand test and a rain test. Most modern fibreglass asphalt shingles are Class A.

Felt or synthetic underlayment — does it matter?

Synthetic is lighter, stronger, less prone to tearing around fasteners, safer to walk on and holds up far better if it is exposed to weather before the shingles go on. Felt is cheaper and has decades of history behind it. For most roofs synthetic is the better product, and the price difference is small relative to the job.

Where it genuinely matters: if there is any chance the deck will sit exposed — a multi-day job, a weather delay, a large roof — synthetic is meaningfully more reliable. Felt wrinkles when it gets wet and can telegraph through the finished shingles.

Georgia’s adopted code sets layer requirements by slope: roofs between 2½:12 and 4:12 require two layers of underlayment; 4:12 and steeper require a minimum of one layer applied shingle-fashion. Check your estimate says which you are getting.

Do I need ice and water shield in Georgia?

Not for ice dams — that is a northern problem. But the membrane is still worth having in the places water is most likely to get in: valleys, around chimneys and skylights, at wall intersections and around pipe penetrations. In this climate it functions as wind-driven-rain protection rather than ice protection, and that is a real risk here.

A reasonable specification for a metro Atlanta roof is ice-and-water membrane in all valleys and around every penetration, with synthetic underlayment across the field. If a quote includes it nowhere, ask why.

Is drip edge required in Georgia, and what should it look like?

Yes, and the requirements are specific. Georgia’s adopted residential code requires drip edge at both eaves and rakes, in minimum 26-gauge galvanised steel, aluminum or equivalent corrosion-resistant metal — vinyl and plastic are not permitted. It must extend at least ¼ inch below the fascia and 2 inches onto the roof deck, be fastened no more than 12 inches on center, and overlap adjacent sections by at least 2 inches with the upper piece over the lower.

There is one detail worth knowing because it is the most common installation error: at the eaves the drip edge goes under the underlayment; at the rakes it goes over. Reversed, water runs behind the metal instead of into the gutter.

We should flag an inconsistency honestly. A FEMA fact sheet on sloped roof systems instructs installing eave drip edge above the underlayment, which is the opposite of the residential code sequence. FEMA’s document addresses public facilities in high-wind regions, so the contexts differ — but if you see the two instructions and they conflict, that is why. Your local building department’s adopted code governs your house.

This is one of the few things you can check yourself, from the ground, with your own eyes. Look along the edge of your roof. There should be a visible metal edge at the bottom and along the sloping gable edges.

What types of flashing are there, and why do they matter so much?

Step flashing runs up a wall in overlapping pieces, one per shingle course. Counter flashing sits over it, usually let into a chimney’s mortar joints. Valley metal lines the internal corners. Apron flashing sits at the base of a wall or chimney. Pipe boots seal vent penetrations. Kickout flashing diverts water away from the wall where a roof edge meets it. Most leaks happen at flashings, not at shingles.

The one that causes the most damage when it is missing is kickout flashing. Without it, water running down a roof-to-wall junction goes straight behind the siding, and the damage accumulates inside the wall for years before anything shows on a ceiling.

When you read an estimate, look for whether flashing is being replaced or reused. Reusing old flashing under a new roof is one of the most common ways to save money on a quote, and one of the most common reasons a new roof leaks.

What is a chimney cricket and do I need one?

A cricket is a small peaked structure built on the up-slope side of a chimney to divert water around it instead of letting it pool against the masonry. Without one, a wide chimney creates a dam that traps water, leaves and pine straw, and that is one of the most reliable ways to produce a chimney leak. Residential code requires one on chimneys above a certain width.

If you have a wide chimney on a slope and no cricket, look at what collects behind it after autumn. A wet, packed line of debris across the back of the chimney is the problem announcing itself. This is worth raising specifically when you get quotes, because adding a cricket during a reroof is far cheaper than adding one later.

What is a pipe boot and why do they leak?

A pipe boot is the collar that seals around a plumbing vent pipe where it passes through the roof. The traditional version has a rubber gasket that sits against the pipe, and rubber degrades under UV. It typically cracks and fails well before the shingles around it do — which is why a twelve-year-old roof can leak at a vent while the rest of the roof is fine.

If you are having a roof replaced, all pipe boots should be replaced too, and it is worth asking whether they are using standard rubber or a longer-life alternative. This is a small line item that prevents a very common leak.

Manufacturer warranty versus workmanship warranty — what is the difference?

The manufacturer’s warranty covers defects in the shingles themselves. The contractor’s workmanship warranty covers installation errors. They are entirely separate, and the second one is usually the one that matters, because manufacturing defects are rare and installation errors are not.

A manufacturer warranty is worth very little if the company that installed your roof is gone in three years, because a leak caused by bad flashing is not a product defect and the manufacturer will not pay for it.

What does a “lifetime” shingle warranty actually mean?

Your lifetime as the owner of that house, not the roof’s lifetime and not the building’s. CertainTeed states it directly: “A lifetime warranty means coverage for as long as you, as an individual homeowner, own your home—not for the life of the home.” Coverage typically applies only to single-family detached residences owned by individuals, transfers once, and drops sharply if transferred late.

The detail from GAF’s own legal warranty document is worth reading in full if you are buying on the strength of the warranty, but the headlines are:

• “Lifetime” means as long as the original owner owns the property. It transfers once, and the second owner must notify the manufacturer in writing within one year.
• Transfer after the first 20 years reduces coverage to a two-year prorated period.
• Coverage prorates over time. Reimbursement reduces by elapsed time against the total warranty term.
• It applies only to single-family detached residences owned by individuals.

What voids a shingle warranty?

More than most homeowners realize. The common exclusions are damage from acts of nature including hail and winds above the rated speed, structural movement and settlement, inadequate ventilation, ice damming, algae discoloration on non-treated products, color fading and chipping, and use of another manufacturer’s products in the system.

Note also that inadequate ventilation is an exclusion. This connects directly to the ventilation section — a contractor who installs a ridge vent without opening soffit intake has potentially created the condition that voids your coverage.

What does a “manufacturer-certified” roofer mean?

Manufacturers run contractor programs with tiers — GAF’s Master Elite, Owens Corning’s Preferred, and equivalents. Certification generally requires the company to meet criteria around licensing, insurance, training and time in business, and it unlocks enhanced warranty products that non-certified contractors cannot offer. It is a real signal, but it is a program, not an independent accreditation.

What it genuinely tells you: the company has met the manufacturer’s criteria and can offer warranties that include workmanship coverage backed by the manufacturer rather than just by the contractor. What it does not tell you: that any individual crew will do good work on your house. Use it as one input alongside references and a physical look at recent local jobs.

Does shingle color matter in Georgia’s heat?

Somewhat, and less dramatically than the marketing suggests. The Department of Energy states that a cool roof can reduce a single-story building’s annual air conditioning energy use by up to 15%, and that a cool-color roof on a home can cut 5 to 20% from cooling costs, with the greatest savings in hot and warm climates. Cool asphalt shingles “cost about the same as conventional asphalt shingles.”

Atlanta is a strong candidate for that benefit — three months a year with normal highs at or above 87°F and a July normal high of 90.1°F. The DOE also notes a winter heating penalty from reflecting sunlight, but observes that “even in mixed climates, winter penalties can be smaller than summer savings.”

What we will not give you is a number for how much hotter a dark roof makes your attic. The DOE’s consumer guide deliberately does not publish degree figures for roof surface or attic temperature, and we could not find a credible source that does. Anyone quoting you “a dark roof makes your attic 40 degrees hotter” is quoting something they did not measure.

The practical takeaway: color is mostly an aesthetic and resale decision. If two colors you like equally differ in solar reflectance, take the lighter one. Do not let anyone sell you a color on the promise of a specific energy saving.

Do algae-resistant shingles actually work?

They help, and the honest answer is that the evidence base is thinner than you would expect. Manufacturers add copper or zinc-bearing granules and warrant against algae discoloration for a defined period on labeled products. But the asphalt shingle industry’s own current standards document lists no consensus algae-resistance test at all, which means the claims rest on proprietary manufacturer programs rather than an industry pass/fail standard.

One correction worth making because the industry repeats it: ASTM D7897 is frequently cited as “the algae test.” It is not. D7897 is a standard practice for laboratory soiling and weathering to simulate effects on solar reflectance and thermal emittance — a reflectance standard, not an algae one.

In metro Atlanta, where humidity and tree cover make streaking close to inevitable on shaded slopes, an AR-labeled shingle is a reasonable default choice. Just read what the warranty on it actually covers and for how long, rather than assuming “algae resistant” means “will not streak.”

Does homeowners insurance cover roof replacement?

It depends on what caused the damage, not on the damage itself. Sudden, accidental damage from a covered peril — wind, hail, a falling tree, fire — is generally covered. Gradual deterioration, age, wear and deferred maintenance are generally not. This is the distinction every roof claim turns on, and it is why a 22-year-old roof that finally starts leaking is usually not an insurance matter.

The second variable is how the policy pays. That is the ACV versus RCV question below, and on an older roof it can be the difference between most of a new roof and a fraction of one.

Does insurance cover a leaking roof?

Often not, and this surprises people. If the leak is the result of a covered event — wind lifted shingles, hail punctured the roof, a branch came through — the resulting damage is generally covered. If the leak is because the roof is old and worn out, it usually is not, because wear is not a peril. Resulting interior water damage may be treated differently from the roof itself.

Will insurance cover a 20-year-old roof?

Increasingly on restricted terms, and sometimes not at all. Carriers have been moving older roofs from replacement cost to actual cash value settlement, and applying roof-age schedules that pay a depreciated amount based on the roof’s age and material. Some carriers now non-renew policies over roof age. Read your declarations page and any roof endorsement before you need it.

One documented example of how this works in practice: one major national carrier’s program switches roof coverage from replacement cost to actual cash value at ten years of roof age, and publishes a roof payment schedule setting out what a roof is worth by age and type. The detail that is genuinely useful and rarely mentioned: those schedules commonly apply only to wind and hail losses. Other perils, such as fire, may still be settled at full replacement cost.

This is the single best argument for reading your own policy rather than relying on general articles including this one. The clause is usually called a roof surfacing payment schedule, a roof settlement endorsement or similar. If you cannot find it, your agent can point to it in about thirty seconds.

What is the difference between ACV and RCV?

Replacement cost value pays the cost to repair or replace the damaged property without deducting for depreciation. Actual cash value pays that cost minus depreciation — the reduction in value from age and wear. The National Association of Insurance Commissioners gives a worked example: on identical $15,000 roof damage with $1,000 deductibles, the RCV policy pays $14,000 and the ACV policy, with $10,000 of depreciation, pays $4,000.

Depreciation is calculated from three things: the condition of the property at the time of loss, the replacement cost of a new item, and the item’s expected lifespan. A fifteen-year-old roof with a twenty-year expected life has lost most of its value on that arithmetic, regardless of how well it was performing the day before the storm.

What is recoverable depreciation, and why did I only get part of the money?

On a replacement cost policy, the insurer typically pays in two installments. The first check is the actual cash value — the full amount minus depreciation and minus your deductible. The depreciation is held back. Once the work is completed and you submit the final invoice proving you actually replaced the roof, that withheld amount is released as a second check. That withheld portion is recoverable depreciation.

This is the single most confusing thing about roof claims, and it generates a lot of unnecessary panic. If your claim was approved for $18,000 and the first check was $9,000, nothing has gone wrong — the difference is depreciation held back plus your deductible, and most of it comes back when the job is done and documented.

Two things to be careful about. First, there is usually a deadline to complete the work and claim the depreciation, and it is in the policy. Second, if the policy is actual cash value rather than replacement cost, there is no recoverable depreciation — the first check is the whole settlement.

Do I have to pay my deductible?

Yes. The deductible is your share of the loss, and it is not optional. Any arrangement that makes it disappear — a contractor “eating” it, inflating an invoice to cover it, or billing the insurer for work not done — is a misrepresentation to the insurer. In Georgia it is also specifically warned against by the Attorney General’s office.

One mechanical point people get wrong: if your policy has a percentage wind or hail deductible rather than a flat dollar one, it is calculated on the home’s insured value, not the claim amount. The Insurance Information Institute’s example: a $300,000 dwelling limit with a 5% deductible means $15,000 out of pocket before coverage applies. Percentage deductibles typically range from 1% to 5% of insured value. Check your declarations page for which kind you have, because the difference is enormous.

Can a roofer pay or waive my deductible in Georgia?

No, and the warning comes from the state, not from us. The Georgia Attorney General’s Consumer Protection Division states: “In Georgia, roofers are no longer allowed to pay a storm victim’s insurance deductibles.” It further warns that “by offering to cover the homeowner’s insurance deductible, the scammer is potentially implicating the homeowner in a case of insurance fraud.” The exposure runs to you, not only to the contractor.

We want to be precise here, because this topic is full of confident citations to statutes that do not say what people claim. O.C.G.A. § 33-24-59.16, which is frequently cited in roofing marketing as the Georgia deductible law, is about parental access to children’s health insurance records. It has nothing to do with roofing, contractors or deductibles. We checked. If a contractor cites it at you, they have copied it from someone who copied it from someone else.

What is verifiable is the Attorney General’s consumer guidance quoted above, and the fact that Georgia consumer protection guidance separately advises homeowners to “be skeptical of any contractor that offers to pay your insurance deductible.” That is enough. You do not need a statute number to know that a company whose opening offer is to help you misrepresent a loss to your insurer is not a company you want on your roof.

Can my roofer handle my insurance claim?

Not in Georgia. State law provides that a residential roofing contractor “shall not represent or negotiate, or offer or advertise to represent or negotiate, on behalf of an owner or possessor of residential real estate on any insurance claim in connection with the repair or replacement of roof systems.” Only a licensed public adjuster may do that. The Attorney General’s office states the same thing.

What a roofing contractor can properly do, and what we do:

• Inspect the roof and document what is there, with dated photographs.
• Give you a written report and a written scope of the work needed, which is yours.
• Be present when the adjuster inspects, so the roof is being discussed by people who are both looking at it.
• Explain what the terminology in your paperwork means, so you can have an informed conversation with your carrier.
• Do the work, to the scope that you and your insurer agree.

What the contractor cannot do is stand between you and your insurer. You file your claim. You talk to your adjuster. You decide. If a contractor offers to “handle it all so you don’t have to deal with them,” that offer is not one they are permitted to make in this state.

The same statute gives you a cancellation right worth knowing: an insured may cancel a residential roofing contract before midnight on the fifth business day after receiving written notice from the insurer that all or part of the claim is not a covered loss. And a residential roofing contractor “shall not require any payments from an insured until the five-day cancellation period has expired,” except for acknowledged emergency services.

Should I file a claim or pay out of pocket?

If the repair cost is below or close to your deductible, filing usually costs you more than it returns — you pay for the work anyway and you have a claim on your record. If the damage is substantial and clearly from a covered event, file. The grey zone is damage somewhat above the deductible, and that is a judgement about your claims history and your carrier’s renewal behavior.

Things worth weighing: how far above the deductible the loss actually is, how many claims you have filed recently, whether your carrier is one that has been tightening roof coverage, and whether the damage is documented well enough to be approved at all. A denied claim still appears in your claims history.

How do I file a roof insurance claim?

Document the damage with dated photographs before anything is touched, make temporary repairs to prevent further damage and keep the receipts, call your insurer to open the claim, be present for the adjuster’s inspection, get an independent written scope from a contractor so you can compare it to the adjuster’s, and keep every document in one place.

1. Photograph everything, dated. Roof, gutters, downspouts, air conditioner fins, screens, siding, fences, and any interior damage. Wide shots for context and close-ups for detail.
2. Mitigate. Tarp active leaks. Policies generally require you to prevent further damage, and the cost of reasonable mitigation is usually covered. Keep receipts.
3. Open the claim with your carrier. You do this, not your contractor.
4. Get an independent inspection and written scope. Having your own documentation before the adjuster arrives means the inspection is a comparison rather than a presentation.
5. Be there for the adjuster. So is your contractor, ideally, on the roof with the photographs.
6. Read the scope you are sent. It is an itemised document. If work you were told is needed is not in it, that is a conversation to have with your carrier.
7. Keep everything. Every email, every scope revision, every check stub.

How long do I have to file a roof claim in Georgia?

Sooner than any deadline, because delay itself weakens a claim — the longer between the storm and the report, the harder it is to establish that the damage came from that event. On the actual limits, your policy’s own “suit against us” provision is the controlling document and it is frequently shorter than people assume. Read it, and ask your carrier directly.

We are deliberately not publishing a specific number of months here. The sources we found for Georgia’s timeframes are secondary readings of the regulations rather than the regulation text, and a deadline is exactly the kind of fact a reader might rely on to their cost. Your declarations page and your carrier will give you the answer that applies to you.

What does an insurance adjuster look for on a roof?

Evidence that damage came from a specific covered event rather than from age. On a hail claim that means impact marks with a random, non-directional pattern, fresh granule displacement around them, and corroborating soft-metal damage on gutters, vents and air conditioner fins. On a wind claim it means directional creasing, lifted or torn tabs, and a pattern consistent with the prevailing wind.

Adjusters typically test a defined square area on each slope and extrapolate. They are also looking for the things that argue against a claim — existing wear, prior repairs, manufacturing defects, poor installation and deferred maintenance.

What does hail damage look like on a roof?

Random, non-directional dents or bruises across the slope, often with granules knocked away from the impact point, and the affected spot feeling soft or springy when pressed — like a bruise on fruit. It will not be in rows or lines. Corresponding dents in gutters, downspouts, roof vents and air conditioner fins are the strongest corroboration.

What matters functionally is narrower than what is visible. IBHS testing found that “dents/ridges and tears are the types of damage most directly correlated to water penetration,” while granule loss scored consistently well across products. Granule loss is the cosmetic mode. Dents, ridges and tears are what actually let water in.

Be careful with lab-versus-field differences too: IBHS notes that the crushed granules produced in laboratory testing are “not seen in the field,” because real “hailstones often will dislodge granules but are not hard enough to crush them.”

How big does hail have to be to damage a roof?

Bigger than most people assume. The National Weather Service treats one inch — quarter size — as the threshold for “severe” hail. But in IBHS laboratory testing of 22 shingle products, 1.5-inch hail left every product tested, impact-rated or not, rated Good or Excellent. Products only separated meaningfully at 2 inches.

This is worth sitting with, because it cuts against a lot of post-storm sales pressure. Pea-sized hail did not damage your roof. Hail that dented your gutters and your air conditioner fins may well have. If a contractor tells you a marginal hail event destroyed your roof, ask what size the hail was and what evidence they have of functional damage rather than granule loss.

For scale: NOAA’s National Severe Storms Laboratory puts hail fall speeds at 9–25 mph for stones under an inch, 25–40 mph for the 1–1.75 inch range typical of severe storms, and 44–72 mph for 2–4 inch supercell hail.

Can hail damage a roof without me seeing it?

Yes. Bruising — where the impact fractures the shingle mat under the granule surface without breaking through — is often not visible from the ground and sometimes not obvious on the roof either. It is found by touch as much as by eye. This is why a post-storm inspection is worth doing even when the roof looks untouched from the driveway.

How much wind does it take to damage a roof?

There is no reliable published threshold, and we are not going to invent one. The industry’s own technical body warns that shingle wind test classifications “do not directly correlate to wind speeds experienced in service.” What matters more than the number is condition: a roof with curled shingles or broken adhesive seals loses shingles at speeds a properly sealed roof shrugs off.

The National Weather Service office covering north and central Georgia records damaging winds on an average of 19 days per year, peaking in July, with the most likely time of day being mid-afternoon through early evening during the favored months.

What is a cosmetic damage exclusion?

A policy endorsement that excludes damage which affects appearance but not function. Applied to roofs, it means dents and marks from hail that do not compromise the roof’s ability to keep water out may not be covered. These endorsements have been spreading, and they can substantially change what a hail claim pays. Check whether your policy has one.

Does insurance cover a tree falling on my roof?

Generally yes when a tree falls on a covered structure — and typically it is your own policy that responds, regardless of whose tree it was. Whose tree it was tends to matter only where negligence is involved, such as a known dead tree the owner was warned about. Removal of the tree itself may be covered at a limited amount separate from the structural repair.

Why is my mortgage company on my insurance check?

Because your lender has a financial interest in the property, and most mortgage agreements require them to be named on claim payments for structural damage. The check is typically made out to you and the lender jointly, and you endorse it and send it to their loss draft department, which releases funds — often in stages tied to inspections as the work progresses.

This catches people out constantly, and it is a scheduling problem more than a money problem. Call the lender’s loss draft department as soon as you have the check and ask exactly what they need, because their process takes time and your contractor will want paying on a different timetable. Ask your contractor up front how they handle a lender-held draw, because a company that has never dealt with one will struggle.

Do I have to use the roofer my insurance recommends?

No. Carriers maintain preferred contractor networks and will often suggest one, but you choose who works on your house. A network contractor is not automatically better or worse — the arrangement simply means they have a relationship with the carrier. Choose on the same basis you would choose without a claim.

Will insurance pay to bring my roof up to current code?

Only if you have ordinance or law coverage, which is often an optional endorsement rather than standard. Without it, a policy generally pays to restore what was there, not to upgrade it to meet code that has changed since the roof was built. With it, the additional cost of code-compliant work may be covered up to the endorsement’s limit.

This matters in practice because codes do change — drip edge requirements, underlayment layers by slope, fastening patterns. Worth checking your declarations page for.

Can I keep the insurance money and not replace the roof?

On an actual cash value settlement, usually yes — that payment is for the depreciated value of what you lost. On a replacement cost policy, no: the withheld depreciation is only released on proof the work was done, so declining to do the work simply means you never receive it. And if you have a mortgage, your lender’s involvement in the check generally makes it impractical regardless.

There is also a longer-term consideration. An unrepaired documented loss on the property record can affect future claims on the same component, and your carrier may require proof of repair at renewal.

Will filing a claim raise my premium?

It can, and carriers vary. A single weather-related claim in an area where many homes were damaged by the same event is treated differently by most carriers than a pattern of claims. What has become more common than premium increases is tightened roof terms at renewal, or non-renewal where roof age is a factor. Your agent can tell you your carrier’s actual behavior better than any article can.

What do I do if my claim is denied?

Ask for the denial in writing with the specific policy language relied on. Read that language against your policy. If you believe the inspection missed something, you can request a re-inspection, and you can supply your own documentation. If you still disagree, your policy will describe an appraisal or dispute process, and Georgia’s Office of Insurance and Safety Fire Commissioner accepts consumer complaints.

A licensed public adjuster can represent you on a claim — a roofing contractor in Georgia cannot. If the amount in dispute is large, that is the professional whose job this is.

How should I document roof damage for a claim?

Photograph before anything is touched, with dates. Take wide shots that establish location and close-ups that show detail. Capture the roof, the gutters and downspouts, roof vents, air conditioner fins, window screens, siding and fences, plus any interior water damage. Keep receipts for tarps and emergency work. Note the date and time of the storm.

Aerial imagery taken at a consistent altitude is genuinely useful here, because it makes damage measurable rather than describable, and it gives you a before-and-after pair at the same scale. It turns a scope conversation into a discussion about photographs rather than a disagreement about opinions.

Should I have the whole exterior checked after hail?

Yes. Hail does not stop at the roof. Gutters, downspouts, siding, window screens, garage doors, fences, decks, outdoor furniture and the condenser fins on your air conditioning unit are all commonly damaged and all commonly missed. The air conditioner in particular is frequently overlooked and can be an expensive omission from a claim.

What maintenance actually extends a roof’s life?

Keeping gutters clear, keeping branches off the roof, keeping debris out of valleys, making sure attic ventilation is working, replacing failed pipe boots and sealant before they leak, and having the roof looked at twice a year and after storms. Almost none of it involves touching the shingles, and almost all of it is about water and heat.

How often should I clean my gutters?

Twice a year as a baseline, and more often under heavy tree cover — which describes most of metro Atlanta. Homes surrounded by pines or hardwoods often need three or four cleanings a year. The test is not the calendar; it is whether water is running through freely during a heavy rain.

Can clogged gutters actually damage my roof?

Yes. Water that cannot exit backs up under the shingle edge and into the roof structure, rotting fascia, soffit and decking edges. It also overflows against the foundation. Gutter damage is slow and it is one of the most common causes of rotted decking at the eaves that homeowners are surprised by at tear-off.

Are gutter guards worth it?

They reduce cleaning frequency; they do not eliminate it. Mesh guards handle leaves well and fine debris less well, and in a pine-heavy yard pine needles are exactly the debris that defeats the cheaper products. They are a reasonable investment where trees make cleaning frequent or access difficult. They are not a permanent solution.

What causes black streaks, and how do I get rid of them?

Black streaking is caused chiefly by a cyanobacterium called Gloeocapsa magma. The asphalt roofing manufacturers’ association recommends cleaning with a solution of liquid household bleach and water, allowing 15 to 20 minutes of dwell time, then a gentle rinse — and explicitly warns against using power washers, brushes or brooms. It also cautions that the effect is “only temporary, and the discoloration may recur.”

Practical notes for this climate: streaking is close to universal on shaded and north-facing slopes here, it is cosmetic, and it will come back. Protect plantings below before any bleach-based cleaning, and if the roof is steep or high, this is work for someone with the right equipment rather than a ladder and optimism.

Can I pressure wash my roof?

No. The manufacturers’ own guidance is to use a bleach and water solution with a gentle rinse, and explicitly not power washers, brushes or brooms. Pressure blasts the granules off the shingle surface — the granules that are the roof’s UV protection — and can drive water under the courses. It makes the roof look better today and shortens its life measurably.

If someone offers to pressure wash your shingle roof, they are offering to damage it. Soft washing, which applies a cleaning solution at low pressure and rinses gently, is the appropriate method.

Do zinc or copper strips stop roof algae?

The principle is sound — metal ions washing down the roof inhibit growth — and installed strips at the ridge do visibly reduce streaking below them. But we could not find an authoritative source that quantifies the effect, and notably the asphalt shingle industry’s current standards document lists no consensus algae-resistance test at all. Treat it as a reasonable measure with soft evidence rather than a proven fix.

Should I trim branches over my roof?

Yes, and it is one of the highest-value things you can do for a roof in this area. Overhanging branches abrade shingles in wind, drop debris into valleys and gutters, keep slopes damp and shaded which encourages moss and algae, and give squirrels a bridge. Aim to keep limbs well clear of the roof surface, and take dead limbs down before storm season rather than after.

Can I walk on my roof to inspect it?

Generally you should not. Falls are the real risk and they are serious, and walking on shingles — especially hot ones in a Georgia summer — scuffs granules off and can damage what you are inspecting. Almost everything a homeowner needs to see can be seen from the ground with binoculars, from a ladder at the eave, or from inside the attic.

How do I check my roof without getting on it?

Binoculars from the ground on every elevation, a ladder at the eaves to look along the plane, and the attic from underneath with a torch and the lights off. Photograph what you see so you can compare next time. If you own a drone, imagery at a consistent altitude gives you a genuinely useful year-on-year record.

What should I look for in the attic?

With the lights off, look for daylight coming through the decking. With a torch, look for water staining on the underside of the deck or on the rafters, damp or compressed insulation, rusty nail shanks, mold, and whether the soffit vents at the eaves are open or buried under insulation. Feel for humidity — a well-ventilated attic should feel close to outside air.

Rusted nail tips are a particularly useful signal. They indicate repeated condensation on the underside of the deck, which points to a ventilation problem rather than a leak, and that is a problem that will shorten the roof’s life quietly.

What should I check after a storm?

Walk the perimeter and look for shingles on the ground, granule piles at downspout outlets, dents in gutters, downspouts, roof vents and air conditioner fins, damaged screens or siding, and any debris on the roof. Then check the attic for new daylight or damp. Photograph anything you find, with the date, before calling anyone.

Do roof rejuvenation or sealing treatments work?

The evidence is thin and we would not spend money on it. These products are marketed as restoring flexibility to aged asphalt and adding years of life. We could not find independent, non-vendor testing supporting the lifespan claims, and applying a coating can complicate or void a manufacturer warranty. Ask the manufacturer of your shingles before letting anyone apply anything to them.

How do I prevent leaks in the first place?

Replace pipe boots proactively rather than waiting for them to split, keep valleys and gutters clear so water moves, keep branches off the roof, have flashing checked at every inspection, and fix small things immediately. Nearly every expensive roof repair started as a cheap one that was left alone for a season.

Actual cash value (ACV)

An insurance settlement basis that pays replacement cost minus depreciation. Contrast with replacement cost value.

Architectural shingle

A laminated asphalt shingle made of two bonded layers, giving a thicker, textured appearance. Also called dimensional or laminate. The default choice on most new residential roofs.

Apron flashing

Metal flashing at the base of a wall or chimney where it meets the roof plane.

Counter flashing

Flashing installed over step flashing, usually let into a chimney’s mortar joints, so water cannot run behind the step flashing.

Course

One horizontal row of shingles. Even course spacing is one of the clearest visual signs of good installation.

Decking (sheathing)

The plywood or OSB panels fastened to the rafters or trusses. The structural surface everything else is fastened to.

Drip edge

Corrosion-resistant metal at the eaves and rakes that directs water into the gutter rather than behind it. Required by Georgia’s adopted code, at both eaves and rakes.

Eave

The lower edge of a roof, where the gutter is. Intake ventilation enters here through the soffit.

Exposure

The amount of each shingle left visible after the next course covers it. Inconsistent exposure is a sign of careless installation.

Fascia

The vertical board at the edge of the roof overhang, to which the gutter is usually attached.

Flashing

Metal that seals joints where the roof meets something else — a wall, chimney, skylight or vent pipe. Most leaks originate at flashing, not at shingles.

Granules

The mineral coating on the shingle surface. They provide color, fire resistance and, most importantly, UV protection for the asphalt beneath.

Hip

The external sloping corner where two roof planes meet. Covered with cap shingles.

Ice and water shield

A self-adhering waterproof membrane. Named for ice dam protection in northern climates; in Georgia its value is as wind-driven-rain protection in valleys and around penetrations.

Kickout flashing

A small piece of flashing that diverts water away from a wall where a roof edge terminates against it. Its absence causes hidden, expensive wall damage.

Layover

Installing new shingles over existing ones rather than tearing off. Cheaper, but hides the decking and generally shortens the new roof’s life.

Net free ventilating area

The effective open area of a vent after screens and baffles are accounted for — not the physical size of the opening. Ventilation ratios are calculated on this figure.

OSB

Oriented strand board. A common decking material made of compressed wood strands. More vulnerable to moisture damage than plywood.

Pipe boot

The collar sealing around a plumbing vent pipe where it passes through the roof. The rubber gasket type is the most common single source of leaks on an otherwise healthy roof.

Pitch

Roof steepness, expressed as inches of vertical rise per 12 inches of horizontal run. A 6/12 pitch rises 6 inches over 12.

Rake

The sloping edge of a roof at a gable end.

Replacement cost value (RCV)

An insurance settlement basis that pays the cost to repair or replace without deducting depreciation. Typically paid in two installments — see recoverable depreciation.

Recoverable depreciation

The depreciation an insurer withholds from the first claim payment and releases once the work is completed and documented. It is the difference between the first check and the total approved amount, less the deductible.

Ridge

The horizontal peak where two roof planes meet at the top. Covered with ridge cap shingles.

Ridge vent

Exhaust ventilation running along the ridge. Ineffective, and potentially harmful, without matching soffit intake.

Soffit

The underside of the roof overhang. Soffit vents are where intake air enters the attic — the half of the ventilation system most often blocked or omitted.

Square

100 square feet of roof surface. The unit roofing is measured and priced in.

Starter shingle

A purpose-made strip installed along the eaves and rakes beneath the first course, providing an adhesive bond at the edge. Required for most enhanced wind warranties.

Step flashing

Individual L-shaped pieces of flashing woven into the shingle courses where a roof plane meets a vertical wall — one piece per course.

3-tab shingle

A single-layer asphalt shingle with cut-outs forming three tabs. Flat in appearance, lighter and cheaper than architectural.

Tear-off

Complete removal of the existing roof covering down to the decking, as opposed to a layover.

UL 2218

The impact-resistance test standard. Classes 1 to 4 correspond to steel ball diameters of 1.25, 1.5, 1.75 and 2 inches. Class 4 is the highest. Failure means an opening visible on the back of the shingle; dents and granule loss are not failures.

Underlayment

The water-resistant layer between decking and shingles. Traditionally asphalt-saturated felt; synthetic is now common and generally superior.

Valley

The internal corner where two roof planes meet. Carries the highest water volume on the roof and is a common failure point.

Wind rating (ASTM D3161)

A fan-induced wind test. Class A = 60 mph, Class D = 90 mph, Class F = 110 mph. The standard states its results do not directly correlate to service wind speeds.

Wind rating (ASTM D7158)

An uplift-force test. Class D = 115 mph, Class G = 150 mph, Class H = 190 mph. This is the standard whose values can be compared to code three-second gust design wind speeds.

Workmanship warranty

The contractor’s warranty covering installation errors, as distinct from the manufacturer’s warranty covering product defects. Usually the one that matters.